What is being installed
- Setrab Fanpack (P/N FP113M22I)
- Series 1, 13-Row Oil Cooler (P/N 50-113-7612)
- Single Spahl Electric fan w/shroud
- Setrab ProLine Mounting Brackets (P/N 23-1002)
- Setrab AN06-AN06 Thermal Switch Assembly, 180º (P/N 31-TS180-06)
- Low Pressure Steel Braided Hoses (P/N 21-SSN06-B)
- Oil Cooler:
- M22-AN06 Adapter x2 (P/N 22-M22AN06-SE)
- Hose to oil cooler:
- “Hot” Side: 90* AN06 RU(Reuseable hose end) x1 (P/N 22-AN06SUAN06-90)
- “Cold” side: 90* AN06 with a 3/8″ hose end (barbed) x1. Please note, if you are not converting to steel braided hoses, you will need two of these fittings.
- Power Steering Rack (low Pressure):
- Shortened 5/8″-18-AN06 ORB adapter fitting x1. If you purchased the Maximum Motorsports’ Power Steering Rack fittings, you can use those instead. Please note the M16x1.5 fitting will NOT work.
- 90* AN06 RU(Reuseable hose end) x1 (P/N P/N 22-AN06SUAN06-90)
- Oil Cooler:
Tools and Supplies Needed
- AN06 Wrench or 11/16″ Wrench
- 3/4″ Wrench
- 5/8″ Wrench
- M22 (or 7/8″) Wrench
- 5/32″ or 4mm Hex Key Tool (Allen Wrench)
- Female Wire Connectors
- Ring Wire Connectors
- Stripping/crimper Pliers
- 18-gauge AWG Wire
- 8mm Socket and Ratchet
- Needle-Nose Pliers
- 3/4″ Socket and Ratchet
- Drip Pan
- 242 (blue) Locktite, or Hydraulic Sealant
Removing the Factory Low Pressure Power Steering Line
- Remove the wheel and place the car on jack stands. By installing the Power Steering oil cooler, it is implied that the bumper cover is not installed. The factory bash bar SHOULD NOT interfere, however, it will be a close fit. If it does interfere, you can mount the oil cooler on the bash bar using the mounting brackets.
- Using a 3/4″ deep socket, remove the driver side sway bar and mount. The mount is held on to the chassis via 2 bolts. You will use the 3/4″ socket to loosen the bolts. Next, you will need to remove the nut from the sway bar link (using the 3/4″ socket) located on the control arms. Once that is remove, you can move the sway bar out of the way for extra clearance.
- The factory rubber hose is routed from the back of the Power Steering pump, to hardline that is attached to the Radiator Support via 2 bolts. Take a 8mm socket and remove the bolts holding the hardline into place.
- After the bolts are removed you will need to remove the rubber lines from the hardline. They are held on by clamps. Take needle-nose pliers and slide the clamps outward (away from the fitting). Once the clamps are no longer around the fitting, you can pull the rubber lines from the hardline. Fluid will be coming out, so make sure you have a pan to contain and check the fluid. NOTE: If you are NOT converting to AN fittings, please step the below steps.
- Next, you will need to remove the Power Steering fittings from the rack. In order to remove the lower pressure fitting, you will need to remove the high pressure fitting. Save yourself the trouble and remove both fittings. You will use the 11/16″ wrench to remove the high pressure fitting. After, you will use the same wrench to remove the low pressure fitting. NOTE: Make sure you do not get debris into the ports. It is highly recommended that you leave the rubber hose attached to the backside of the power steering pump.
Installing RU Ends on a Steel Braided Hose
NOTE: If you do not have a speciality cutter, you can use a Dremel or cut-off wheel. Please be sure to wrap the hose with tape, and wrap a zip tie where you would be making the cut so that the line does not fray. If you do not have a bench grip, you can install the fitting by applying an opposite force so that the hose does not slip out of the fitting.
Installation of the Setrab Fanpack on a SN95 Mustang
- First, figure out where you are going to place the cooler. Keep in mind of the rotation of the fan (pull versus push) when finding placement. You SHOULD NOT mount the cooler in the opposite way of airflow, because it will counter-act. Another words, if you have a “puller”, you do not want the fan facing the front of the vehicle (in front of the oil cooler). You want the fan facing the rear of the vehicle (in back of the oil cooler). If you are mounting the fanpack on a 94-98 SN95 Mustang, you can place it right under the driver side headlight, using the fender bracket bolts, please see below. As discussed in the previous article, this location will clear the bumper, would not throw hot air into the radiator, and it is located in a high pressure area of the bumper. Because of its proximity to the bumper, you can easily make a ducting opening to the cooler for increased efficiency. Adding a ducting hose will ensure that the maximum airflow reaches the cooler.
- Once the placement is known, next you will need to measure how much of a line you will need. Once the length is known, you can cut the line and install the RU ends. You can use a 0*, 45*, or 90* fitting for the steering rack, I used a 90*.
- Install the low pressure AN adapter into the rack. You can use the 11/16″ wrench to tightened the fitting. Make sure you install the o-ring. I also installed a teflon o-ring for extra measure. Be careful NOT to cross-thread the fitting or over-tighten and strip the fitting. It is highly recommended that you coat the thread with hydraulic sealant, or 242 (blue) Locktite.
- Next, install the AN06 RU fitting (fitting with the hose) and tighten the fitting just enough to avoid leaks.
- Using the M22 or 7/8″ wrench, you are going to install the M22-AN06 adapter fitting onto the oil cooler ports. Please be sure that the fitting has the teflon o-ring
- Install the mounting bracket to the oil cooler by placing the bracket on top of the cooler. Make sure that there is not a sticker or anything that will interfere with the mounting
- Place the steel back plates under each oil cooler mounting tab
- Use the hex tool to fasten the supplied M6-1×14 steel button cap screws
- Tighten the screws snugly and be careful not to over-tighten
- Mount the oil cooler at the location you decided on.
- Figure out which side of the cooler will be the “hot” side and which will be the “cold side”. Hot side will be the fluid coming directly from the rack (after the fluid has done its job). The cold side will the the side that the fluid would exit the cooler. The cooler will flow either way. It is EXTREMELY important that you do not mount the cooler on the high pressure side of the system because it MIGHT cause the cooler to crack under that kind of pressure.
- After that is decided, use the 90* AN06 with a 3/8″ hose end (barbed) to screw on the “cold” side AN adapter fitting. Use the AN06 or 11/16″ wrench to tighten the fitting. Make sure to not over-tighten the fitting. Just tight enough to prevent leaks.
- Connect the rubber return hose (the hose that connects to the back of the power steering pump.
- Using pliers, you are going to squeeze the clip and slide it to where the hose is over the fitting and clamp it down.
- If you have a Thermal Switch, you will screw in the switch into the adapter fitting. Be sure to tighten it finger-tight using a teflon thread sealant or tape. And you will use a 5/8″ wrench to tighten the switch 2-2.5 turns.
- After the switch is in the adapter fitting, you will mount the adapter fitting on the “hot” side fitting of the cooler. Do not over-tighten the fitting. Just enough to prevent leaking.
- Next, you will connect the hose from the low pressure on the rack via AN06/RU fitting. Again, do not over-tighten the fitting. Just enough to prevent leaking.
- The fan will have two connections: ground (black) and positive (red). You will need to mount the black to solid (chassis) ground. I extended the ground so that I can mount it to the radiator support.
- If you are using a Thermal Switch, you will connect the red cable from the fan to one of the prongs on the switch. If you are connecting an on/off switch, please refer to the switch manual on how to connect.
- The Thermal switch will have one more prong, which will be for the connection to constant 12v power. I found that it was easier to connect to the wire directly to the battery.
- Make sure that the lines are routed to above any interference with moving parts, such as the wheel. You will need to test when the wheels are at full lock, and give yourself some wiggle room to account for static and dynamic alignment changes.
- Start the car, and find/fix leaks. You will need to “bleed” the Power Steering system.
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